Via Madonnina, a corner of Paris in Milan, is where we begin this itinerary that is dedicated to the flavour of tradition. Along with the streets Via S. Carpoforo and Via Fiori Chiari, Via Madonnina is actually part of a popular, antique district that survives in its cafes and typical restaurants. In the area there are many galleries of art and antiques, the academy and the precious Pinacoteca (gallery) and Biblioteca (library) and the famous Via Brera, just a short distance away. Adding to its charm, however, is the fantastic offer of optimum restaurants where one can savour dishes of tradition. A real temple of the Italian gastronomy is the historic delicatessen, Peck, in Via Spadari, which can be reached in only a few minutes’ walk, heading towards Duomo.
Camparino in the Galleria breathes history and culture and was a favourite of Verdi and Toscanini who stopped by on their way home from La Scala. Another popular stop is Savini, an historic restaurant that entertains elite patrons. Heading along Corso Vittorio Emanuele II to Piazza San Babila, here we find Via Bagutta, where you can take a break at the restaurant of the same name. Lastly, we stop at the Caselli di Porta Venezia (old tollhouses) that host the seat of the Associazione Panificatori di Milano e Provincia (Bread makers Association of Milan and Province), Accademia Europea di Panificazione e Pasticceria (European Academy of Bread and Pastry Making) in the eastern casello and the Casa del Pane (House of Bread) in the western casello).
Part of a popular antique district that has been skilfully restored and is the heart of the so-called “Montmartre” of Milan.
Its name was taken from a venerated image of the Virgin Mary (Madonna) on an altar of the facade of the house.
Until the end of the 18th century, it was the centre of the district that comprised the streets of San Raffaele, San Carpoforo, Fiori Chiari and others, and was famous for being “the street of immorality and sin”.
Located behind Piazza San Babila, Bagutta offers traditional Italian cuisine with Tuscan and Lombard influences.
The restaurant was discovered by the writer Riccardo Bacchelli and soon became frequented by many of his friends that used to meet up to dine together and discuss books.
On the evening of Saint Martin, 11th November 1926, 11 people gathered here (including Riccardo Bacchelli, Orio Vergani and Paolo Monelli) had the idea of creating a literary award for which they would be the self-elected jury.
The eastern casello hosts the seat of the Associazione Panificatori di Milano, Provincia and the Accademia Europea di Panificazione e Pasticceria, with machines for working bread and other flour-based products. The Casello Ovest (western tollhouse) is otherwise called the Casa del Pane (House of Bread).